
(This is the kind of post I should be making at home, near my bookshelves, rather than at work. Oh well.)
People always ask me what my favorite cookbooks are. Understandably, as I have many, many, many cookbooks. Which also makes it hard to choose favorites, though.
And I have some very well-loved cookbooks that are on very narrow subject, too, and usually I feel awkward recommending them unless someone has specifically asked about said subject (like, say, breakfast, in which case Marion Cunningham's The Breakfast Book is the one, or meat, in which case Bruce Aidell's Complete Book of Meat and whatsisname's River Cottage Meat Cookbook are my picks).
But, OK. For posterity's sake, then, here are a handful of both my most beloved and my most versatile cookbooks, followed by a more quirky selection of recommendations. Ask me next month, and I might have a different opinion, but not too different.
Because I have a lot of cookbooks that I love to read, but not necessarily cook from. These are all cookbooks I cook from. Promise. Check the pages for stains when you come over and you'll see what I mean.
Two really excellent general cookbooks:
Vegetarian Cooking For Everyone by Deborah Madison. I was a little shocked to learn that this book is ten years old now (and coming out in a new edition). And yet, it's the backbone for so much of what I do in the kitchen. Madison isn't kidding with the title -- it doesn't matter whether you're a vegan, a vegetarian, an occasional vegetarian, or a happy go lucky omnivore. If you eat plant matter in your diet, this book will serve you well.
Simple Food by Alice Waters. This book is less than a year old and I've already cooked out of it a zillion times. I also think this is a great starter cookbook. And on the other hand, I am hardly a novice and I still get great mileage out of these recipes. They are simple indeed, but solid. Also, she made me love soup.
Quirky choices (other than the three I mentioned above):
Just about anything by Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford, but especially Seductions of Rice and Hot Sour Salty Sweet. The former is a tour of rice in world cuisine; the latter is all about Southeast Asian food, and strikes just the right balance between accessible and 'authentic.'
Claudia Roden's Book of Jewish Food and Book of Middle Eastern Food. I love the former because of its emphasis on Sephardic cuisine, which turns upside-down the usual notion of what "Jewish food" consists of -- or, more precisely, opens it up wide to encompass so much more. Some people think Roden underseasons her dishes, btw; I say, if you're tasting as you go, you will never go wrong with her recipes.
I love Nigel Slater's Kitchen Diaries. The book is just that -- a diary of what he cooked and ate at home, all year. Some entries are true recipes, some are just sketches, and some are just a sentence about good cheese and bread and fruit and cold cuts, say. What I particularly love, other than the casual accessibility, is the seasonal aspect to the writing. This is a book about what it's like to cook to the rhythm of the seasons, day after day.